For a Mexican, it is difficult to visualize himself seated at the table with the intention of enjoying a meal without the inseparable accompaniment of the corn tortilla.

This dependency on corn is as ancient as the history of our culture. The most ancient corn, native of Meso-America, is known from the excavations done in the area of Tehuacan in the Mexican state of Puebla. This so-called "teosinte", the wild relative or precursor of cultivated corn, the Zea mays, may be as old as 9,000 years, while the cultivated species that was thought to date back 7,000 years, has recently been dated to a mere 4,500 years.

Ancient Mexicans believed that corn stalks formed the hair of the "Great Mother", earth. This fact is beautifully expressed by the Mexican poet Ramón López Velarde who said: "Gentle homeland... your surface is corn"; meaning the body of the deity with many faces.

Also, a modern myth of the Mayas-Kekchis of Belize speaks of the coyote that discovered the corn in the tale of the coyote's flatulence or "fart". According to the legend, corn had not been discovered yet and the coyote was the first to find it, eating it in secret. The other animals found out that the coyote was eating the coveted cereal because of the smell of its flatulence. Without meaning to, he had been indiscreet and because of his flatulence, the existence of corn is discovered, the cereal with which the gods created the body of man and on which he would feed for the rest of his existence.

To the Aztecs, Centeotl was the goddess of the earth and the corn, in other words, the deity that provided sustenance. Because of that, extraordinary and solemn celebrations were dedicated to her throughout the year, that coincided with the state of growth of the corn and in which the goddess was called by different names. Thus it is believed that she was called Xilomen when the grains of corn were still tender.

The rhythm of life of plants, in this case corn, finds a parallel with that of human life among various groups of Native American Indians. For example, the Pawnee of the United States recreate the act of a woman giving birth in a ceremony where they uproot the corn that starts appearing on the plant and that simulate the birth. In the long house, they dress a corncob in a baby's clothing and treat it as if it were a baby, later as an adolescent, until it reaches the point where it is the Young Mother of the Corn. Most assuredly, they change the corncob from tender to mature, or they plant it in the long house where they watch over it as if it were indeed a real young, virgin woman.

Ancient Mexicans called corn - or maize - tlaolli and they grew numerous varieties of it: large, small, black, red, purple, white and blue. The importance it held as a food was such that Spanish historian Clavijero compared it with wheat in Europe, rice in Asia and millet in Africa. Furthermore, it was nutritional, healthy, appetizing and not so difficult to cultivate.

Although today, corn tortillas are within reach of all social strata in Mexico, in ancient times those made with red corn were nearly exclusive to the higher levels and the very rich, while those made with white corn were the only ones eaten by those lacking wealth or social status.

The importance of this grain was noticeable in the life of our Mexican ancestors, a situation clearly obvious in some of the laws and regulations established by King Netzahualcóyotl - the theft of corn was punishable by death, especially theft in someone else's fields. Stealing a mere seven cobs of corn was enough for the culprit to be sentenced. In order to avoid that poverty and need push ancient Mexicans to theft, this wise king had corn planted in common fields where the poor could get the basic food they lacked.

Maize was not just good to eat, it also helped an Aztec healer to diagnose an illness. To do so, he would choose 10 of the most beautiful grains from a cob of corn, throw them up into the air and then pick them up in his hands while invoking a clarification from the gods with regards to the illness in question. To conclude his divining ceremony, he would throw the grains of corn into the air once again and depending on how they fell back to earth, he would diagnose the death or recuperation of the patient.

Curiously enough, Aztecs were already using today's popular popcorn, but they used them in necklaces and garlands during ceremonies to attract the attention of the gods to the drought they were suffering at the time. The "palomitas" represented the dryness of the earth. In this ritual that included solemn dances and the eating of popcorn, they asked the gods to send them water through rains. As more "palomitas" were shown to the gods during those festivities, this demonstrated that the sadness of the villagers was truly heartfelt, deep and acute and therefore their help was desperately needed.

Finally, the next time you sit down to enjoy a meal and they bring you some flavorful corn tortillas, remember that this is a cereal that has accompanied man throughout his cultural history which was seasoned with the magical sparks of man's feverish mind that made maize part of his way of life and death.

cupul@pvmirror.com