by Pamela Thompson

Around the middle of August or so, I always reach the point where I can't take it anymore - - I just know that I am going to spontaneously combust at any moment from the heat and humidity. After eleven summers, it's still the same. Don't get me wrong, I love Puerto Vallarta but the body can only take so much heat - you have to take a break! It's time for a reprieve in San Sebastian.

At 7:45 am as I board the small plane, I was already beginning to sweat. Ha! I though, not for long! As we flew over the lush green, ascending towards the mountains that I view and marvel at from my house daily, I could feel my skin begin to cool and the pressure of humidity dissipate. Within minutes, we landed on the 'airstrip' field. At 8:00 am the birds were beginning their day and seemed to be greeting me! Pure peacefulness surrounded me as I strolled down the path that leads to the Hacienda Jalisco. No buses, no taxis or traffic here! I had returned to what I can only describe as a 'slice of heaven'. Entering the large hacienda, the wonderful energy that beams from the inside surrounds me - along with the reminder that I feel cool.

Greeting Bud Accord, the owner for approximately 35 years, I felt at home. He is the voice for the energy of Hacienda Jalisco. Catching up on the comings and goings, gossip and happenings in Puerto Vallarta over several cups of San Sebastian coffee, I could have been 1000's of miles away rather than a mere 15 minute flight!

Spurred on by the 'energy' of the java, I decided to head into town. Walking along the river on the footpath, as always, I was amazed at the flowers blooming in every imaginable hue. Arriving into town, it is pretty quiet - after all it's Sunday. Every road that leads to the plaza is a Kodak moment. Again, no traffic noises only the clip clop of a couple of horses.

Time to eat! Breakfast at Christy's, a huge area. The menu is recited by Christy herself - a friendly lady with her makeup impeccably done and not a hair out of place (I on the other hand have leaves in my hair). Chilaquiles is what she suggests and they are excellent! A nice surprise of a plate of fresh panela and hand made tortillas.

Time to return to the Hacienda. To nap or not to nap? Is there a choice? I head to my room with large wooden antique furniture, blankets, quilts, a fireplace, kerosene lamps - I feel that warm and secure feeling as a child visiting grandma's house. As I stand on the balcony looking into the yards of the Hacienda, I see snapdragons, daisies, nasturtiums, poppies, zinnias - - all flowers I have attempted to grow in my Vallarta garden but seem to fail at. Overlooking the vegetable garden, I see Rafael (the cook, maid) picking baby lettuce and onions for tonight's salad. This inspires me to keep trying at growing my garden in the tropical jungle at home.

It's nap time and lo and behold! I need a blanket! It's been months! What a wonderful feeling to be chilly - - now if I could only bottle and sell this feeling in PV!

I must have slipped into a coma - I wake up 3 hours later. The sun has disappeared behind the clouds and the drizzle has begun. Wow! I can even wear a sweatshirt!

Evening sounds and smells have begun. The geese are honking at one another down at the river. Some kind of wonderful odor is wafting up at em - I'd better check it out! As I arrive to the downstairs patio, the table is set amidst more flowers and greenery, not to mention artifacts and memorabilia. I try to imagine how John Huston viewed this haven on his many visits and must have been rejuvenated and inspired by the tranquility.

Food for the gods as we savor baby asparagus, fresh green salad, pork in a wonderful apple sauce - - a good Chilean wine and coffee. Sharing conversation, the hours pass and night has fallen with its sounds enveloping me.

Returning to my room, Rafael has lit the kerosene lamps, projecting a welcoming glow. Tucked away in bed, the darkness is as if my eyes are closed tightly shut giving me time to reflect on ideas, feelings, loved ones as I drift off into oblivion sleep ...under blankets!!!

Don't get me wrong, I love Puerto Vallarta. It is my home. But Hacienda Jalisco in San Sebastian is a break everyone needs. I return on the short flight, descending into the valley, refreshed and renewed with the memory of the coolness tucked away deep inside to savor and recall when I feel that combustible feeling return.

Ms. Thompson owns and operates Travel PV (formerly Viajes Alegre) and she will gladly assist you in organizing your trip to this beautiful town that time has passed by. She also offers other options for you to choose from, i.e.: hiking/birdwatching packages, led by Eduardo Lugo and Maru Rodriguez (from Wildlife Connection). Bud Alcorns' histories of John Huston are worth the trip alone!
Travel PV also offers "Dolphins in the Wild" at this time with excellent comments and many return clients. (Recently featured on Animal Planet/Discovery Channel and working in conjunction with "Selva Negra", the famous musical group Mana's non-profit ecological conservation organization).
You may contact Ms. Thompson by phone at 223-1695 or by e-mail at: pmt@prodigy.net.mx