Ruins of the Ixtlan del Rio

The idea was to do a special graphic report on what some foreign visitors experience when they take part in some of the most appealing tourist activities available in Puerto Vallarta and/or surroundings. In order to do so, I decided to join an eco-cultural excursion called the "Tequila Six Pack", organized by Harris Tours. The itinerary includes a visit to an area of volcanic lava deposited by the Ceboruco Volcano, the Ruins of Ixtlan, and the town of Tequila, birthplace of the world's most famous elixir by means of which part of our folklore and culture is identified - Tequila.

It was a beautiful sunny day and I arrived on time at the entrance to Plaza Neptuno in Marina Vallarta, from where the tour would depart. After one stop to pick up some tourists staying in Nuevo Vallarta, the tour per se began heading north. The bus was modern, comfortable and air-conditioned. Eduardo introduced himself as our coordinator and tour guide. We were 36 in all, 16 Canadians, 14 Americans, 5 Brits and me, the sole Mexican on board.

The first thing we saw was the town of Bucerias, located about 30 minutes from Vallarta, located next to a beautiful beach. Before the highway connecting La Cruz de Huanacaxtle and Puerto Vallarta was built, this little town was known for the row of food stands where one could enjoy a large variety of seafood along the side of the road. Today, those stands can be found along the beach. Due to its proximity to Vallarta, now Bucerias offers a great variety of vacation properties for rent, by the day, the week or the month.

About five minutes past Bucerias we reached the point where the new highway meets the two-lane highway, which is in excellent shape. We would follow that road all the way to our final destination, the town of Tequila, Jalisco.

From that point on, we would be entering the Eastern Sierra Madre, known here as the Sierra de Vallejo. Right away, we could see a wide range of vegetation on both sides of the road that would continue to change as we ventured further in a northwesterly direction. This is where our guide Eduardo, born in Mexico City and living in Vallarta for the last 10 years, began to get involved with the group. His English pronunciation was excellent. He explained that there are approximately 5,000 different species of plants in this region, some of which are used for food and medicine, among others. He also spoke to us about the kinds of wildlife living in the area we were crossing and the factors that influenced their existence. Along the way, we saw plantations of mango, papaya, pineapple and tobacco to name but a few. In my opinion, the most fascinating thing was that all along the way, on both sides of the road, we could see another of Mexico's many faces, rich in color and tradition in the little villages we were passing.

The first official stop was a gas station at the entrance to a little town called La Peñita. This station has a mini-market, and clean washrooms. Eduardo gave us each a package with fruit, bread and a granola bar, along with coffee or juice - a nice, light and nutritional breakfast. Some took advantage of the stop to buy some refreshments, bottled water, cookies, and to use the washrooms.

After about 15 minutes there, when we had the opportunity to get to know each other a little better, we got back on the road, heading for our second stop, the volcano region where we would see the Ceboruco Volcano. On that stretch, Eduardo suggested we take a little nap and a lot of us did. When we reached the observation point, we got out of the bus to climb a little hill of volcanic rock from where we could see the impressive volcano. During its eruption 150 years ago, the lava it spewed forth spread for thousands and thousands of kilometers around. From where we were, we could see another volcano, still in its formative stage, that was not yet ready to erupt… for now, that is!

After seeing the volcanoes, we continued on to Ixtlan del Rio, the place of the "ixtle" or obsidian. Until about 20 years ago, when the four-lane highway linking Guadalajara with Tepic was finished, along with the turnoff to Compostela and then Puerto Vallarta, Ixtlan was an inevitable point along the way between Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta. For a long time, its development was based on passing tourists, both national and foreign. Once the highway was finished, although not completely, Ixtlan was cut off from tourist influence. Now, in the hope of attracting foreign tourists back, the state government of Nayarit and the local authorities are promoting visits to the "Los Toriles" archaeological zone, the next stop on our tour. They are also promoting "La Sidra", a destination I intend to visit in a very near future.

A little prior to reaching the archeological zone of "Los Toriles", declared to be a cultural heritage site in Mexico, in order to induce us and as an introduction that would help us get into a solemn state worthy of entering a privileged site, Eduardo spoke to us of the beautiful legend of the Fifth Sun, one that contains an enigmatic mysticism that motivates us to transport ourselves mentally to faraway ancient times, allowing us to perceive the lifestyle of our ancestors, as well as the reason and magnitude of the events they celebrated in this place.

As an interesting fact, I should mention that fortunately, the present state of the ruins is quite good, but we can see that -due to a lack of proper resources and knowledge and although the restoration work that began in 1950 was done with good intentions- the wrong techniques and materials were used, i.e.: dynamite, tiles, cement, stones, etc. Despite all that, the building complex has maintained its ancestral essence. Walking around there, we could feel an atmosphere I would call spiritual, invaded by the god of wind that caressed the cheeks of the visitors, transporting them to other dimensions. The plain where this ancient settlement is situated is lovely, set in a valley near the foot of a little mountain from where, I am sure, our ancestors could admire its great splendor.

Originally, this archeological zone spread over more than 80 hectares. In early times, between 300 B.C. and 600 A.D., a cultural complex known as the "Tumbas de Tiro" flourished here, characterized by an underground architecture. Ceramics from that tradition show an abundance of color. Between 750 and 900 A.D., a new way of life can be noted in the area, identified as the middle Ixtlan period, a time that represented the epitome of this city dedicated to the god of wind.

The archeological zone is located between two rivers, which is why it is very fertile. The city was made up of 15 buildings, all of which are standing today. Among them is the Round Temple, the Central Altar, the Palace of the Columns and the Worshipping Stone, among others. It is not sure whether these were built by the Nahuatl, the Toltec or others. Thanks to pieces found with inscriptions in Nahuatl, it may be ascertained that the Aztec did pass by this place on their pilgrimages over three centuries, on their way to the place where they finally founded marvelous Tenochtitlan.

Walking silently in this place enabled me to connect with a past filled with mysticism that transported me to relive times that I could never imagine, even in my most adventurous and fantastic dreams. However this time I wasn't dreaming, I could feel, through the breeze that blew gently in different directions, that for one moment in my life I had the privilege of standing in a place that was sacred to its ancient inhabitants - my ancestors.

We spent about one hour there. Afterwards, we got underway again, headed for Tequila, with a stop at the Tequila Sauza ranch one the way. That is where they sow and harvest the agave azul used to make the coveted liquor, the honorable drink that represents Mexico around the world, Tequila.

The ranch was just a little before the town of Tequila itself. We went through a security gate and into the ranch where we were welcomed Pepe, an old, expert "jimador" who is responsible today for showing visitors the type of maguey chosen here for planting, as well as the procedure for its care, harvest and categorization prior to sending it on to the distillery. Among the most relevant information Pepe gave us was that each cactus or agave azul "pineapple" gives about two gallons of Tequila. Pepe also talked to us about the legend that says that Tequila was discovered as a gift from the god of thunder. Nearly solemnly, he told us the story of how the inhabitants of the region were granted the privilege of discovering Tequila. The legend in its entirety is delightful and rather that retelling it, I invite you to hear it personally from Pepe, translated by the guide, just like I did.

Among other things, we realized that an expert "jimador" who knows how to use his tools can plant one thousand small agave plants per day. When Pepe gave us a demonstration of how the agave is selected and planted, we just stood there with our mouths open! He told us that a "jimador" is paid twenty-five centavos of a peso for each plant. This means that an expert "jimador" like him could earn an average of $250.00 pesos per day for planting. This amount is equivalent to approximately $22.00 U.S. dollars per day. After he had given us his demonstration, one of the tourists tried to plant some agaves. He soon realized that this is not work that can be done by just anyone. The work involved in planting, harvesting and peeling the "pineapples" requires precision, and total concentration. At harvest time, up to three and a half tons of agave "pineapples" (the heart of the plants) can be harvested every day!

We left the ranch very content, headed for one of the most prestigious distilleries in Mexico, renowned around the world… "Tequila Sauza".

When we reached the distillery, we had to sign a document whereby we accepted to follow the instructions we would receive - to the letter. The facilities were impeccably clean. We were greeted by our host and brought to the storehouse where the aging barrels were stored. This is a truly impressive place and from the entrance, we could detect the strong, sweet aroma of the liquor produced by the aging of the Tequila in its various presentations. Interesting fact: the barrels used here are made of Canadian wood. For a moment, the Canadian tourists among us felt very proud. In this storehouse, like inside the distillery itself, it is forbidden to take photographs or film, and without images, it is very difficult to describe how fantastic this place dedicated to the aging process really is. We received a great deal of information, among which that clear Tequila is composed of 65% alcohol and 35% sugar, also why it is the most appropriate one for the preparation of the famous "margaritas". For all those who appreciate quality, that is where they told us that the best Tequila on the market of the Sauza brand is the "Tres Generaciones". According to our host, this is the cream of all their Tequilas, their export product.

After we heard about the different times required for aging according to the type of Tequila, we went on to see the distillery where they process the agave "pineapple" and where the production of the Tequila takes place, through its extraction, distillation and fermentation.

Before going in, for our own protection, we were invited to put on a protective cap. They also took us to see a beautiful mural depicting the legend of the discovery of Tequila, its harvest and the ancient process of extraction, distillation and fermentation, as well as what this liquid causes once it has been consumed… The mural is truly spectacular and in my opinion just being able to see it up close makes the trip worthwhile. Once they gave us detailed explanations of its meaning and let us take some pictures, we were invited to go into the distillery and stay close to each other.

We were guided through all the areas and what we discovered along the way was really interesting. All the equipment and machinery used nowadays to process and obtain the Tequila is really fascinating. This distillery is an excellent example of how technology has been able to collaborate so that Tequila may be completely processed and ready to be sent to aging in no more than 56 hours - without losing its essence! In this distillery, following a rigorous quality control, they can produce up to 300 bottles of Tequila per minute!

During the entire tour, our host told us practically everything we needed to know and understand about the process, all with an excellent pronunciation of English, in a happy, clear and simple fashion. Telling you what we heard without being there would be senseless, and probably difficult to understand. This type of information requires for the listener to have the information reinforced by observation.

After we saw every corner of the distillery, we were taken to the Hacienda that used to be the home of the Sauza family, before it was purchased by Casa Pedro Domeq. Today, this beautiful Hacienda is used as a rest area for visitors and there is a tasting of various types of Tequila on one of its fantastic terraces, overlooking a patio surrounded by a lovely cool garden. Here is also where we were served the lunch that we were so eager to enjoy.

Obviously, the tasting was one of the most entertaining events of the day. Many tasted more than one and by the time they began to serve lunch, some were already happier than you can imagine… For my taste, the lunch was simply excellent! We had an exquisite cream of squash and we could choose either chicken or beef for the main course. Like the good Mexican that I am, I chose the beef. It was prepared with a ranch seasoning better than I've had in years. It was a good time to spend together and get to know each other better. The topics of conversation were varied and we all enjoyed the perfect weather. With the help of the Tequila, we could hear the smiles all around.

After lunch, we were invited to get to know the Hacienda a little better. That too was a fascinating feature of the tour. The Hacienda was built about 125 years ago and the maintenance work ensured that all its authentic ancient details remained just as they were back then. Today, each of the rooms is used to exhibit furniture, paintings, photos and other details -museum-style- allowing us to go back in time. One of the corners that caught my attention was the little chapel dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. Its simplicity, elegance and quiet made me feel that I had to kneel in front of her to give her thanks for having allowed me to be there. For us Mexicans, the Virgin of Guadalupe is our infinitely bountiful mother who always intercedes on behalf of her children so that they may be well. The devotion to the Virgin of Guadalupe is such that more than 91% of Mexicans living in our country pray to her every day. We also celebrate her with passion and devotion on her day, December 12th. After Mexico City, Puerto Vallarta is the second city to demonstrate such devotion to the Virgin during these celebrations.

In the Hacienda, there is also a small boutique, in very good taste, where we can purchase T-shirts, caps, shirts, glasses, souvenirs and such, obviously all reminiscent of Tequila Sauza. The most important for Tequila lovers is to return home with liquor, and here it can be purchased at distillery prices!

After going through the whole Hacienda and taking dozens of photos, we were told that the time had come for us to go back to the bus. When we got to the bus, we were advised that, due to causes beyond our control, we would return in another bus. They brought us to the entrance to the town of Tequila for the transfer. There is a monument to the "jimador" there, the character to whom the city owes its name, its growth, its present and its future, whatever that may come to be.

We boarded the new bus and headed back toward Puerto Vallarta. Most of us took advantage of the time to relax and catch a few winks. Personally, I read a book that Eduardo had lent me, that deals with the life and traditions of the Huichol Indians. The book moved me and when I finished it, I promised myself to visit some of their villages to know more about what a documentary made by the Discovery Channel stated: "The Huichol are the last link that still exists between Mexico, its ancestral culture and that of today." Harris Tours also organizes a tour that visits places where the Huichol live and I will probably have the pleasure to join them on that adventure soon.

According to most of us who enjoyed this trip, it was very educational and very interesting. Taking into consideration that this is an eco-cultural tour, the guide's training, the spirit of service and attention he showed us, as did all those who offered us service and information throughout our excursion, personally, I would recommend it highly for adults over 21.

The tour lasts from 8:00 A.M. to 8:00 P.M. It includes transportation by air-conditioned bus, a light breakfast, lunch and drinks at the Hacienda, Tequila tasting and entrance to the distillery, all for $750.00 pesos per person.

Some recommendations:

· Bring a camera and/or camcoder.
· Dress comfortably with sneakers or walking shoes. Bring a towel.
· Bring insect repellant and sun block.
· Bring money in pesos for purchases.
· Bring pills against carsickness - should the need arise.

If you want to know more about this excursion, I suggest you visit Harris Tours' web site at: http://www.harristours.com or contact them directly by e-mail at: info@harristours.com

Once again, thank you so much to all those who allowed me to share this excursion with them, and especially our guide Eduardo and the Harris Tours company. We will soon publish the graphic report of another venture in this section.

For any comments, questions or suggestions, please do not hesitate to contact me at: editor@pvmirror.com I am at your service.

Sincerely,

Jesús de Avila
Graphic Reporter - Editor

Photo Gallery

At the volcano:

Volcanic rock from the Ceboruco volcano

A view of the Ceboruco volcano

In the Ruins:

Ruins of the Ixtlan del Rio. In middle you can see the sacrifice stone

Here is Eduardo the tour guide, giving an explanation of the ruins

Entrence to the archeologic zone of "Los Toriles"

A view of the ruins from the entrance

The Central Altar

The stairs of the Palace of the Colummns

Another view of the palace of the Colummns

A view of the Round Temple dedicaded to four winds

In the Ranch:

Pepe, one of the Jimador's in the ranch of Tequila Sauza

Here is the blue agave, one type of the cactus where they extract the world famous tequila… or "to kill you"

The blue agave plantation

Pepe selecting the blue agave for planting

Pepe planting the blue agave

A turist trying to plant the blue agave... good try!

Pepe preparing his tools to take the hart ["la piña"] out of the blue agave

Everybody who went to the tour

Pepe, giving a demonstration of how they clean the hart of the blue agave before they send it to the distillery

In the town of Tequila:

Street from the town of Tequila, Jalisco

Window towards the past

Statue of "el jimador" at the entrance of the city

In the Destilery and the Tequila Sauza Hacienda:

The Virgen of Guadalupe sculture at the entrence of the destilery

A couple from the tour at the Hacienda of Tequila Sauza… cheers!

Another couple testing one of the tequila drinks

Making new friends thanks to the tequila... cheers!

Our host giving an explination of various tequilas

The patio inside the Hacienda

Another view of the patio

Virgen of Guadalupe inside the family chapel