Quimixto… a Little corner of Vallarta.

by Jesus de Avila

Finally, after more than a year, my girlfriend and I decided to visit Quimixto once again. This is a little village south of Puerto Vallarta that can only be reached by sea, a place that some 250 families call home. Obviously, each family has an average of five members.

After a drive of about 15 minutes along the scenic highway that connects Vallarta to Manzanillo, we arrived at Boca de Tomatlán around 9 o'clock. That's where you can get one of those "water taxis" that will take you to Quimixto. When we got there, we found out that the first taxi leaves at 9:30 A.M., and the last to return leaves Quimixto around 5:30 P.M. As we waited, we realized that mosquitoes attack their victims ferociously here. We ran to buy some repellent at the local shop.

Water Taxi on his way to Quimixto

At exactly 9:30 A.M., we boarded the "taxi" that would take us to Quimixto and within a few minutes 10 of us were at sea, following the coastline, on the way to our destination. I would like to mention that the "water taxi" -which is really a fiberglass boat with a capacity for 20 people- is the only means of transportation to reach paradisiacal places like Las Animas, Quimixto and Yelapa, the most often visited sites among so many other small, beautiful beaches and coves one can find south of Vallarta.

After 25 minutes or so on a calm, deep blue ocean, time that allowed us to enjoy the ride and especially admire the spectacular sights of the oceans meeting the mountains along a line of white foam where the waves break upon the rocks, we reached our final destination after having made a stop at Las Animas where six of our original group got off.

Arriving to Quimixto

Claudia and I were the only ones to get off at Quimixto. (The other couple was going on to Yelapa.) For the kind of activity that takes place here, we arrived early so in fact we could watch the village wake up. We took the path up the mountain along the only paved road in the place, one that leads directly to the place where the horses are tied up. These can be rented to take you to the falls. By now, I had already taken some photos as we walked around, admiring the houses, most of which are made of wood, with earthen floors. We could see how four or five people slept in a single room. In nearly all of these houses, the beds are separated by a raised sleeping platform that enables two people, usually the parents, to sleep in the upper part of this little house that his about ten by twelve feet in size. We had the opportunity to enter one of them and it is really amazing how, despite the small space, most of the families have a stove, a refrigerator, a TV and a stereo.

Thanks to Ignacio [Nacho], a good friend originally from that place, and his family, after having breakfast in the house of another friend, we went out on horseback to the falls of Quimixto, an obligatory site to see. We followed a path that is maintained with the cooperation of all the families of the place, going up and down the hills, we crossed part of the mountain before reaching the falls. On both sides of the path, despite the heavy traffic, we could still see hundreds of different types of wildlife and especially different types of birds that would fly right in front of us in search of food. We saw many green parrots, the same kind that the locals catch to keep as pets in their homes. Once they are acclimatized and trained, this kind of parrot is very talkative and makes for excellent companions.

Quimixto falls

After about 25 minutes at a relaxed pace on horseback, we reached the falls that although the rainy season hasn't begun yet, still have enough water to be beautiful and form a natural pool where the visitors can cool off. Naturally, we got into the very cold water and enjoyed a deliciously refreshing and invigorating dip.

After a while, Nacho asked us to join him in going farther upstream to go even more deeply into the forest. We walked for more than 40 minutes, following the river. Some of the vistas were truly marvelous. And along the way, we found out where the favorite spots for the river shrimp were. Nacho and his family caught some to prepare a delicious soup later on.

Part of the river environment

Like always, I was fascinated with the vegetation and especially the changing environment as we followed the river. Nothing and no one can hold the river back. It will find a way despite all the natural obstacles that may block its way. Although I truly enjoy this type of treks, I am not accustomed to them and while Nacho and his family and even Claudia were walking barefoot, I had to put on my sneakers to be able to follow. Just seeing how accustomed the locals are in following the river is a show in itself. Seeing the children jump among the slippery stones like baby goats with no problem whatsoever really amazed me. At times I was even worried that they could slip and fall, hurting themselves, like Nacho's daughter who was even carrying a little girl about 3 years old on her shoulders. While I was worrying, she was laughing at me, inviting me to follow her and stop worrying.

The canyon waterfall

Finally, we reached a spot where a little canyon had formed. There we found another waterfall. We stopped there to take another refreshing dip in its cool waters. Once again, the little ones carried on as they were wont to do and all got together to ensure that we were having a good time too. They climbed to the top of the waterfall and lying down, they blocked the water for a moment, just to stand up suddenly and let the water fall freely once again. I stood beneath them many times over, just to feel the power of the water when they would let it fall on my back full force. A most exciting experience it was.

After the dip, having cooled off again, we decided that it was time to head back. This time, we took another path, away from the river banks, that made our way back easier. By the time we got back to the first waterfall, it was already 2 o'clock and there were many foreign visitors there who had come with the various boats that offer day tours there.

During the hike, Nacho told me that most of the 200 families who live there earn their life from the rental of horses. When we got to the lower waterfall, we noticed that more than 80% of the visitors had gotten there on foot. I didn't feel like asking Nacho if that was normal, but he told me quietly, sad and worried that that is how it has been for the last few weeks. I asked him to tell me more about what was going on, and he did. "The cost for the rental of a horse both ways is $100.00 pesos, of which $20.00 pesos go to the guides that come off the tourist tour boats. The authorities advised us over a month ago that in order to continue renting out the horses, we would have to pay for insurance against all kinds of accidents that may occur to visitors along the ride. Our group decided that in order not to increase the rental costs to the tourists, we would ask the guides to lower their commission from $20.00 to $15.00 per person, and we would allocate the remaining $5.00 pesos to the insurance fund. The guides disagreed, saying they preferred to tell the people not to take the horses to go to the waterfalls, even though that would mean that they would lose all their commissions. And that's how it has been since then as we could not come to an agreement."

Thinking about what it meant for the local families to lose the income from the horse rentals, I could understand their sadness and concern. Nacho told me that each family owns an average of 6 to 10 horses, and that there was a roll so that each family would get its turn to rent its horses according to the demand, justly. Nowadays, waiting for your turn to rent out your horses means waiting three to four days. For Nacho and each one of the families, this means an average of $600.00 to $1,000.00 pesos per week from the rental of horses, and with that they have to provide for a family of five or six, feed the horses, pay for light, power and all the other necessities. All this without counting their basic groceries which they usually get in Puerto Vallarta, and for which they have to pay an average of $80.00 pesos per person for transportation on land and sea each time they go grocery shopping.

Horseback ride is safe

The saddest part of all this is that some of the guides (not all) -maybe as a way of pressuring them to raise the prices so that they may continue to receive the same commissions- are telling visitors that the horseback ride is dangerous. Today, I can tell all those of you who are thinking of visiting Quimixto that the horseback ride is safe, including for those who have never ridden horse before. The animals are docile and they know the paths to take perfectly well. In fact, they are so used to it that they will take you straight to the falls and back -at a slow, even pace- even if you don't guide them. These are not race horses, and if their riders treat them with respect, there is no reason whatsoever to think that the ride would not be safe and pleasurable. It's been a month now since our visit to Quimixto and according to that which was planned, regardless of whether the families have come to an agreement with the guides or not, it is most probable that they have contracted the accident insurance coverage as required of them by the authorities.

By the time we got back to the village, it was 4:00 p.m. and we were very hungry. We had to leave to catch the last water taxi back to Boca de Tomatlán. Nacho told us that he, his wife and one of his children had to go to Vallarta, so if we agreed, we could all go back in the boat of one of his friends who would do us the favor of taking us after the one and only Catholic mass celebrated in the village at 5:00, which he wanted to attend. Claudia and I figured that would be fine and we would take advantage of the time to go eat at one of the restaurants on the beach - which was about to close for the day. Not only did they attend to us very well, but they would even allow us to take a little siesta in a wonderful hammock while we waited for our boat to leave.

Part of the beach. View from restaurant

They prepared a filet of fish in butter and garlic and another "a la diabla", and apart from the fact that we were so hungry, the seasonings were excellent. After we had eaten, Claudia decided that she would attend the mass too. I went to sleep for an hour or so.

Finally, the time came for us to go back. We all boarded the little boat and landed in Boca de Tomatlán at the same time as the sun set. From there, we drove back to Puerto Vallarta.

We had the chance to not only enjoy the day, but also spend time with the folks of Quimixto, and that was worth more than the outing itself. Once again I was able to see what I have felt ever since I came to Vallarta 26 years ago, the local folk, with their problems and conditions, who without prejudice continue to dedicate themselves wholly to their daily routine, and to fulfilling the wishes of those who open their hearts to them. For one day, Claudia and I were part of a humble, hard working family. We were treated with respect and warmth. Within the means at their disposal, they shared everything they had with, demonstrating to us that we would be welcome every time we would return.

Nacho's kids

Quimixto, that little corner of Vallarta, allowed me to feel once again the colorful joy of a people. Its people reminded me that this place would be absolutely nothing without the human quality of its inhabitants.

Naturally, we will return to Quimixto very soon, and naturally, I recommend to all our readers that once they are in Puerto Vallarta, they should visit this beautiful spot south of town.

Hasta Pronto!

Jesús de Avila
editor@pvmirror.com